All in Missions and Churches

Cycling Across Panama: The Road to the Panama Canal

Cycling Across Panama: The Road to the Panama Canal

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Border Crossing, Cycling, Pacific Tropical Lowlands, Pan-American Highway, Wildlife, Panama City, Panama Canal, Chinese New Year, Semana Santa, Missions and Churches

Panama stands at the crossroads of two continents. At its narrowest, just 30 miles of land (48 km) separates the world’s largest oceans. Here, where the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans nearly meet, the Panama Canal bridges the gap and creates one of the most important international waterways in the world. In addition to the canal, Panama’s vibrant traditional, indigenous fabrics formed the backdrop for festivals celebrating the Lunar New Year (Asian) and Holy Week/Easter (Catholic) holidays, reinforcing Panama’s distinction as a ‘melting pot’ of cultures. Our road ended in cosmopolitan Panama City, where on any given day we could visit a historical old town, a scenic Pacific waterfront, or a nearby tropical forest. It was a wonderful ‘adios’ to our journey across North and Central America. South America, here we come!

Cycling Honduras and Nicaragua: The Flat Pacific Lowlands

Cycling Honduras and Nicaragua: The Flat Pacific Lowlands

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Travel, Pan-American Highway, Volcanoes, Bike Touring, Border Crossing, Cycling, Bikepacking, Managua, Granada Nicaragua, Missions and Churches, Pacific Tropical Lowlands

Central America has many countries crowded into a relatively small space, leading to frequent encounters with immigration offices. Having crossed quite a few land borders over the years, we nonetheless wondered if we were up to the challenge of Honduras and Nicaragua. Both have a reputation of bringing even the most seasoned travelers to their knees with less than well oiled bureaucracies. Luckily, we successfully maneuvered the bureaucratic obstacle courses at the borders. A home run in getting a visa extension in Nicaragua gave us the time to enjoy the capital city of Managua, and soak up the wonderful, historic ambiance of Granada, on the shores of a freshwater lake inhabited by sharks.

Cycling across Guatemala and El Salvador

Cycling across Guatemala and El Salvador

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Travel, Pan-American Highway, Guatemala City, Central American Highlands, Sierra Madre del Sur, Bike Touring, Border Crossing, Missions and Churches, Cycling, Bikepacking, San Salvador

From Guatemala City we had only three days of riding to the border with El Salvador. Yet Guatemala continued to enchant us, with pre-Christmas festivities in one town and a colorful saint’s day procession in another. After a difficult border crossing, we once again marveled at the differences between countries as El Salvador revealed its own, unique character and beauty - even though our holiday plans in San Salvador didn’t quite work out as planned.

Cycling Across Guatemala: In the Land of Volcanos

Cycling Across Guatemala: In the Land of Volcanos

PedalingGuy
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Central American Highlands, Cycling, Missions and Churches, Pan-American Highway, Volcanoes, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala City

After the big climb out of Lake Atitlan’s ancient crater, we cycled through more of the Guatemalan Highlands. In the historic city of Antigua, we soaked up the interesting mix of Mayan and Spanish influences before climbing a volcano. A final push took us to Guatemala City, where we celebrated the approaching Christmas holiday as we worked on bike repairs.

The Most Beautiful Lake in the World: Cycling Huehuetenango to Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

The Most Beautiful Lake in the World: Cycling Huehuetenango to Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

Pedals and Puffins
Wildlife, Bike Travel, Pan-American Highway, Central American Highlands, Volcanoes, Bike Touring, Missions and Churches, Cycling, Bikepacking, Lake Atitlán

As we continued our cycling journey through the Guatemalan Highlands, each community we passed though had its own, unique character. Giant kites fluttered in the wind over a mountain town churning out colorful textiles. Mayan ritual sites clustered in a new-age enclave where music filled the air. And international cuisine was served in a town where most people’s native language was Mayan. But the main attraction was the breathtakingly picturesque Lake Atitlán, with its backdrop of three volcanos - where a pre-dawn hike led us to a quetzal, Guatemala’s national symbol.

Cycling the Guatemalan Highlands: Cuatro Caminos to Huehuetenango, Guatemala

Cycling the Guatemalan Highlands: Cuatro Caminos to Huehuetenango, Guatemala

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Central American Highlands, Cycling, Missions and Churches, Weather, Cuchumatán Mountains, Day of the Dead, Equipment

Over the course of three days we would gain nearly 10,000 ft (3,050 m) in elevation as we cycled upwards into the Guatemalan Highlands. This rural and rugged region is home to the Mam Mayans, who maintain many customs that date back hundreds of years, including wearing their traditional, woven and embroidered garments. We were fortunate to pass through one town during their lively, annual Heritage Fair. From there we plunged out of the highlands into the big city of Huehue, in time for the celebration of All Souls Day among the tombs in the municipal cemetery.

Cycling Into Guatemala: San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico to Cuatro Caminos, Guatemala

Cycling Into Guatemala: San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico to Cuatro Caminos, Guatemala

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Travel, Central American Highlands, Sierra Madre del Sur, Ecosystems, Bike Touring, Missions and Churches, Cycling, Bikepacking, Pueblos Mágicos, Border Crossing

We wanted to savor our final few days in Mexico. So instead of heading straight for the border, we lingered in one more magical town and cycled through a countryside dotted with picturesque lakes. We finally said “good-bye” to Mexico at a little-used border crossing at the top of a really big hill. During our first couple of days in Guatemala we cycled along a quiet road lined with scenic rock formations - until we took refuge from the rain in a woodland bungalow, at a quirky and off-the-beaten-path recreational park.

Cycling the Chiapas Highlands: Arriaga to San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico

Cycling the Chiapas Highlands: Arriaga to San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Cycling, Ecosystems, Oaxaca Mexico, Pueblos Mágicos, Sierra Madre del Sur, Wildlife, Missions and Churches, Central American Highlands

Departing Arriaga, Mexico we had nowhere to go but up. First, we cycled upwards from the hot and humid coastal plain through the gorgeous Sierra Madre del Sur, where a close encounter with wild coatis boosted our spirits. Next we crossed a broad, highland valley that took us to the state’s bustling capital city. But it was the second big climb, up onto the high Chiapas Plateau that nearly did us in. After gaining a mile and a half in elevation in a single day, we cycled into the magical town of San Cristóbal de las Casas - exhausted but victorious. San Cristóbal ended up being a wonderful place to hang out, becoming one of our favorite cities in Mexico.

Mezcal Mountains and Windy Lowlands: Cycling from Oaxaca to Arriaga, Mexico

Mezcal Mountains and Windy Lowlands: Cycling from Oaxaca to Arriaga, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Cycling, Ecosystems, Missions and Churches, Oaxaca Mexico, Sierra Madre del Sur, Wildlife, Pan-American Highway

After a wonderful layover in Oaxaca, we saddled up and cycled down the Pan-American Highway towards Guatemala. The road took us eastward through the heartland of mezcal production, then over a series of high mountain passes. After descending onto the Pacific coastal plain, we battled both the fierce winds that blow across the narrowest part of Mexico and a mysterious animal we found in our hotel room in the middle of the night. Our final stop was the bustling commercial hub of Arriaga, where we rested before tackling the big climb back into the Sierras.

TransMexico Norte Part 6: Cycling from Izúcar de Matamoros to Oaxaca, Mexico

TransMexico Norte Part 6: Cycling from Izúcar de Matamoros to Oaxaca, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Cycling, Ecosystems, Missions and Churches, TransMexico Norte, Wildlife, Oaxaca Mexico, Sierra Madre del Sur

The final leg of the TransMexico Norte bikepacking route took us across high ridges in the Sierra Madre del Sur. Daily thunderstorms ensured that we started our days early, and sought shelter in the afternoons. We traveled through the cradle of the Mixtec civilization, whose people have inhabited the high mountain valleys for thousands of years - and whose descendants remain to this day. On the final day of cycling, we dropped down into the Valley of Oaxaca for an extended layover, where we celebrated Mexico’s Independence Day.

TransMexico Norte Part 5: Cycling from Toluca to Izúcar de Matamoros, Mexico

TransMexico Norte Part 5: Cycling from Toluca to Izúcar de Matamoros, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Mexican High Plains, Wildlife, Bike Travel, Ecosystems, Bike Touring, Missions and Churches, Cycling, Bikepacking, TransMexico Norte, Pueblos Mágicos, Mexico City, Monarch Butterflies, Weather

After a break of nearly two months, we were finally back on the TransMexico Norte bikepacking route. We had spent much of the rainy season off our bikes, exploring Belize and Mexico City. But with a new, shorter deadline for cycling to the Guatemalan border, we had to get back on the road - even if it meant dealing with daily tropical downpours. Before long we had descended out of the high plains into lowland mountains shrouded in lush forests. Once again we discovered the pleasures of cycling through novel landscapes, and uncovering the hidden gems - like massive caves and offbeat museums - that other tourists rarely see.

TransMexico Norte Part 4: Cycling from Guanajuato to Toluca, Mexico

TransMexico Norte Part 4: Cycling from Guanajuato to Toluca, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Cycling, Ecosystems, Mexican High Plains, Missions and Churches, Pueblos Mágicos, Sierra Madre Occidental, TransMexico Norte, Wildlife, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, Monarch Butterflies, Valle de Bravo, Volcanoes

From Guanajuato, the TransMexico Norte bikepacking route took us into the country’s central volcanic belt, passing between two majestic volcanos and through two of the country’s most popular tourist towns. Along the way, we cycled among the steep-sided foothills of towering cinder cones, as well as through fertile lowlands of sugar cane and agave. Ubiquitous, colorful murals proclaimed Mexico’s love for Monarch butterflies, which overwinter each year among the pines on the slopes of a few, high, volcanic peaks. Just as the rainy season began in earnest, we reached the city of Toluca, where we would take some time off our bikes to let the rains pass.

TransMexico Norte Part 3: Cycling from Zacactecas to Guanajuato, Mexico

TransMexico Norte Part 3: Cycling from Zacactecas to Guanajuato, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Cycling, Ecosystems, Mexican High Plains, Missions and Churches, Pueblos Mágicos, Sierra Madre Occidental, TransMexico Norte, Wildlife, Guanajuato

The sweet fragrance of a guava candy factory, or the scent of tanned hides from a long line of leather shops. The heat of the sun from a cloudless sky, or a cool breeze blowing across desolate hills. The sound of church bells, or a roving band of mariachis singing songs of love and loss. And the beauty of a mountain overlook, or a tranquil plaza in a colonial village. Traveling this part of the TransMexico Norte bikepacking route has served up a feast for the senses - anchored on each end by two of Mexico’s fabled silver cities, which at one time generated most of the wealth in the world.

TransMexico Norte Part 2: Cycling from Durango to Zacatecas, Mexico

TransMexico Norte Part 2: Cycling from Durango to Zacatecas, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bikepacking, Cycling, Ecosystems, Mexican High Plains, Missions and Churches, Pueblos Mágicos, TransMexico Norte, Wildlife, Sierra Madre Occidental, Forest Fires

The TransMexico Norte bikepacking route hugs the foothills of the Sierra Madre mountains on its way from Durango to Zacatecas. As we followed the route, we found ourselves alternately climbing up into the cool, pine-cloaked mountains, then plunging back down onto Mexico’s hot, arid, central plateau. There, at the edge of the desert, we cycled between bustling cities and magical towns that trace their histories to the Spanish empire’s hunger for silver and gold.

TransMexico Norte Part 1: Cycling from Mazatlan to Durango, Mexico

TransMexico Norte Part 1: Cycling from Mazatlan to Durango, Mexico

Pedals and Puffins
Mexican High Plains, Wildlife, Bike Travel, Forest Fires, Ecosystems, Bike Touring, La Paz Mexico, Missions and Churches, Cycling, Bikepacking, TransMexico Norte, Sierra Madre Occidental

Saying farewell to Baja, we voyaged across the Sea of Cortez to mainland Mexico. From there, an arduous but spectacular 9,000 ft ascent (2,750 m) would take us from the coast to the heights of Mexico’s Sierra Madre mountains. Along the way we officially crossed into the tropics and rode through grand, colonial-era towns built on the mining of silver and gold.

Baja Divide Part 6: Cycling from Ciudad Constitución to La Paz

Baja Divide Part 6: Cycling from Ciudad Constitución to La Paz

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Baja Divide, Cycling, Bikepacking, Baja California Desert, La Paz Mexico, Wildlife, Missions and Churches

The final segment of the Baja Divide bikepacking route is the longest. For 170+ miles (275 km) it makes one final crossing of the Sierra La Giganta Mountains, then follows the stunning coast of the Sea of Cortez to the region’s capital in La Paz. On the first day we visited another one of Baja’s historic missions in the mountains. After lingering briefly in the cool, tranquil church and a pleasant lunch in the shade of a palapa, we cycled back out into the scorching, thorny, rocky and sandy backcountry. A tough road over the mountains, made a bit harder by a rooster-induced lack of sleep, brought us to the idyllic beaches of San Evaristo. There, an abundance of seafood tacos restored our energy. We spent our final night on the Baja Divide at one of the most beautiful campsites we’d ever had, next to a green stone cliff on a completely secluded beach. Seven days after departing Ciudad Constitución, we cycled into La Paz, buoyed by the memories of our incredible Baja journey, and ready to head to Mexico’s mainland for more adventure.

Baja Divide Part 5: Cycling from Mulegé to Ciudad Constitución

Baja Divide Part 5: Cycling from Mulegé to Ciudad Constitución

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Baja Divide, Cycling, Bikepacking, Baja California Desert, Wildlife, Missions and Churches, Pueblos Mágicos

We began this leg of the Baja Divide bikepacking route by cycling along the shores of a deep blue bay in the Sea of Cortez. Our destination was Loreto, one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos, and the town where Spanish influence in Baja began. From there, a lung-busting climb into the heights of the Sierra La Giganta mountains set us up for another rough and wild descent through the central desert - complete with towering cliffs, palm-lined oases, and the chance to visit remote ranches where some traditions have changed little for centuries. The last dash across the sandy Magdalena Plain carried us through acres of orange groves, until we finally came to rest in the agricultural heartland of Baja California Sur.

Baja Divide Part 4: Cycling from San Ignacio to Mulegé

Baja Divide Part 4: Cycling from San Ignacio to Mulegé

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Wildlife, Whales, Bike Travel, Baja Divide, Cycling, Bikepacking, Baja California Desert, San Ignacio Lagoon, Missions and Churches

The Baja Divide route out of San Ignacio led us southward for a rendezvous with some of Baja’s famous gray whales. Then a fast and fun race across salt-encrusted flats brought us back to the foot of the mountains. We cycled upwards through a valley dominated by a desert arroyo - alternately maneuvering through slippery piles of cobblestones in the river bed or plowing through deep sand along its banks. In the most remote areas, we gratefully accepted the hospitality of ranchers who welcomed us into their homes for food and rest. After some of the most difficult cycling we have tackled so far, we finally landed in the exuberantly colorful, historic town of Mulegé.

Baja Divide, Part 3: Cycling from Bahía de los Ángeles to San Ignacio

Baja Divide, Part 3: Cycling from Bahía de los Ángeles to San Ignacio

Pedals and Puffins
Bike Touring, Valle de los Cirios, Bike Travel, Baja Divide, Wildlife, Ecosystems, Cycling, Bikepacking, Baja California Desert, Bahía de los Ángeles, Whales, Missions and Churches

After visits to a few dentists in Ensenada and Tijuana, we resumed our bicycle trip where we left off. A beautiful ride through Baja’s central desert brought us to a laid back, coastal village and our first encounter with the Sea of Cortez. From there, we savored the sensation of returning to Baja’s remote backcountry as we cycled between remote desert ranches through ankle-deep sand, where shade was a precious commodity in the sun-baked landscape - until we finally arrived at the palm-studded oasis of Misión San Ignacio.