North of Chilecito, the landscape burst into a complex maze of ridges and high deserts. Cycling along ancient paths among the sierras, we followed Route 40 across arid valleys, over high, cold plateaus, and through narrow canyons lined with stunning rock formations. Tranquil desert camps alternated with humble, village hospedajes. Eventually we descended into greener lowlands, cycling into the historic and charming city of Salta.

As we crested a hill a broad, brown valley stretched before us in the morning light, marking Patagonia’s northern boundary and the gateway to Argentina’s wine country. The river below symbolized a cultural shift, from the rugged gauchos of the southern frontier to the country’s fertile agricultural heartland. There was still plenty of wild country ahead, including a massive lava field and high deserts in the shadow of volcanos. But eventually we rolled into the more developed lowlands of Mendoza - draped with autumn-toned grapevines, nurtured by glacial meltwater flowing down from the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere.