We began this leg of the Baja Divide bikepacking route by cycling along the shores of a deep blue bay in the Sea of Cortez. Our destination was Loreto, one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos, and the town where Spanish influence in Baja began. From there, a lung-busting climb into the heights of the Sierra La Giganta mountains set us up for another rough and wild descent through the central desert - complete with towering cliffs, palm-lined oases, and the chance to visit remote ranches where some traditions have changed little for centuries. The last dash across the sandy Magdalena Plain carried us through acres of orange groves, until we finally came to rest in the agricultural heartland of Baja California Sur.

The Baja Divide route out of San Ignacio led us southward for a rendezvous with some of Baja’s famous gray whales. Then a fast and fun race across salt-encrusted flats brought us back to the foot of the mountains. We cycled upwards through a valley dominated by a desert arroyo - alternately maneuvering through slippery piles of cobblestones in the river bed or plowing through deep sand along its banks. In the most remote areas, we gratefully accepted the hospitality of ranchers who welcomed us into their homes for food and rest. After some of the most difficult cycling we have tackled so far, we finally landed in the exuberantly colorful, historic town of Mulegé.

After visits to a few dentists in Ensenada and Tijuana, we resumed our bicycle trip where we left off. A beautiful ride through Baja’s central desert brought us to a laid back, coastal village and our first encounter with the Sea of Cortez. From there, we savored the sensation of returning to Baja’s remote backcountry as we cycled between remote desert ranches through ankle-deep sand, where shade was a precious commodity in the sun-baked landscape - until we finally arrived at the palm-studded oasis of Misión San Ignacio.