North of Chilecito, the landscape burst into a complex maze of ridges and high deserts. Cycling along ancient paths among the sierras, we followed Route 40 across arid valleys, over high, cold plateaus, and through narrow canyons lined with stunning rock formations. Tranquil desert camps alternated with humble, village hospedajes. Eventually we descended into greener lowlands, cycling into the historic and charming city of Salta.

As red canyon walls embraced us while cycling up a mountain pass, we continued to marvel at the diverse landscapes of Argentina’s legendary Route 40. The crowded highway just north of Mendoza had given way to a remote, high desert populated by tall, saguaro cacti, guanacos, and long-legged rodents five times the size of a rabbit. Gold, silver and copper lured prospective miners to isolated towns, where they built amazing feats of engineering to haul the ore out of the mountains. And in the lowlands, vineyards continued to attest to wine’s central place in the country’s economy and psyche.