What began as ride on quiet bike paths soon devolved into pandemonium as we cycled back onto the Pan-American Highway. Yet beyond the chaos of Lima the serenity of the open desert returned, only occasionally interrupted by a booming port town, a verdant agricultural valley, or a laid-back fishing village. Juicy, fresh fruit from roadside vendors fueled climbs over barren ridges as we tried not to wilt in the searing, equatorial desert sun. When fate conspired to keep us in the coastal city of Trujillo longer than expected, we lingered in its beautiful, colonial plazas, soaking up the deep history of northern Peru.

The region south of Lima, Peru, was full of surprises. We cycled past ancient images of animals and warriors etched on the desert hills, a 230-ft windmill blade sneaking down a sinuous mountain road, and acres of grape vines destined to become Peru’s national drink, the pisco sour. Slowly the coastline evolved from desolate beaches to a sprawl of condos and resorts. Just as the traffic became too crazy for cycling, we cruised onto a cliffside bike path with sweeping ocean vistas - and a holiday layover in Lima, the city by the sea.