All in Brittany
A ferry ride across the English Channel will bring us back to France. But before we can leave, we’ll have to wait in the ferry terminal until our overnight voyage is ready to board. Once we’ve landed in France, two trains will whisk us across Brittany to Nantes. There we’ll finally get to revisit the giant, mechanical elephant, and his equally astonishing, fellow animal machines. There’s nothing quite like it.
On a blustery, rainy day we bundled up our cycling gear and boarded the ferry for England. We lingered in Plymouth for a day, visiting famous sights like Hoe Park and the Barbican neighborhood and soaking up the maritime ambiance. But the Tors of Dartmoor beckoned us. So we rode our bikes northward, up the Plym River and into the rugged, granite hills.
After two more days cycling along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, we’ve turned north into the region of Armorica - the ancient heart of Brittany. Leaving behind the castles of the valley, we rode through the legendary Monts d’Arrée, where Celtic legends arise from the heathlands and mossy forests. In Carhaix-Plouguer, we enjoyed seeing roadside art inspired by the Tour de France, which raced through the center of town in 2018.
Following the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, we’ve cycled into the very heart of Brittany. Along this route, nearly every town has a castle with a story linked to the Dukes of Rohan, once one of the most powerful families in the region. Between towns, the canal was lightly used, so we often had the towpath to ourselves - making for a serene and relaxing ride.
The Loire River in France is considered one of the great bicycle routes of Europe. Our itinerary postpones cycling the length of the river until August, but we got a taste of the fabled Loire as we headed north towards the English Channel. We cycled more than 60 km along the river, from its mouth to Nantes, the former seat of the Dukes of Brittany. We thoroughly enjoyed the scenic southern bank, and saw an amazing sight as we entered the city...
Cycling north from La Rochelle, we soon found ourselves in the historical realm of Brittany. True to its reputation, the region has proven blustery and damp. Bumpy trails through rural woodlands and marshes have put some wear and tear on our biking equipment that required our attention. But we’ve thoroughly enjoyed the scenic beauty of the countryside and coast.
