Nantes to Josselin, France: Cycling the Nantes to Brest Canal
7-9 April 2019
Nantes to Blain (7 April 2019, 50.4 km, 31.3 mi)
When we woke up this morning it was still raining. But the forecast predicted that the rain would clear, and it would be a lovely day. So we delayed our departure until the rain stopped and the sun came out. We were on the road by 9:30am.
What a difference a few days makes. It’s been steadily getting warmer, and the rain must have stimulated the plants to grow. The trees have more leaves, and more flowers are in bloom. Tulips and daffodils are up. But the big show-stoppers are the bright yellow fields of mustard flowers. France is Europe’s leading producer of mustard, a tradition that dates back at least to the Middle Ages, when the Dukes of Burgundy would ship barrels of mustard to all the other royal families in Europe. Brittany’s climate is particularly well suited to growing mustard, which requires cool temperatures and moist soil. Apparently the plants are in bloom for only about two weeks, so we’ve been lucky to cycle through the region right at the peak of the flowering season. It’s quite a spectacle to see the intensely-yellow flowers blanketing the fields.
Dazzlingly bright mustard flowers spread to the horizon. North of Nantes, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Some of the neighborhoods we road through today showed cultural similarities between Brittany and Great Britain. We saw lots of stone houses that looked like British country homes.
The houses north of the Loire River have a very different look and feel than the others we have seen in France. You can sense the cultural linkage with Great Britain. La Chapelle-sur-Erdre, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Stone farmhouse, Brittany, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Half way through today’s ride, we arrived at the banks of the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. The canal was commissioned by Napoleon I to provide safe inland passage between military ports in the early 1800s, when Brest had been blockaded by the English fleet. Stretching for 360 km, it was France’s most ambitious canal project. In 1920 a dam along the Blavet River submerged a section of the canal, so that sections in the middle are no longer navigable. Restoration efforts are underway, along with a campaign to increase recreational use. But we found most of the route to be relatively quiet, and lightly used. Today, we saw hardly any boats in the canal.
We’ll be cycling along the towpath of the canal for several days. Today the trail surface was mostly hard-packed, fine gravel, which was really good for biking. It reminded us a lot of our ride along the Erie Canal.
This section of the path was a bit less developed - but that was because we missed a turn that would have put us on the other side of the canal (and a better path). Most of the route today was on hard-packed, fine gravel - great for cycling. Nort-sur-Erdre, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Cowslip flowers along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. Nort-sur-Erdre, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Around lunchtime some clouds rolled in and we got a little bit of rain. Fortunately it didn’t last too long. The main effect was to make the gravel wetter, so it splattered up on our bikes. They’ll need a good cleaning after this. But we’ll wait a few more days, since more rain is in the forecast.
Upon arriving in Blain, we went to a B&B hoping for an early check-in. No one was there, so we placed a call to a phone number they had posted. The proprietor didn’t speak any English, and our French is very minimal. Communicating over the phone is much more difficult than in person when you have few words in common with the person on the other end. But somehow we managed to communicate that we were at the property, and that we would like to get a room for the night, so the couple who owns the B&B came home to let us in. The husband made us tea in their kitchen while the wife made up a room for us. We used Google Translate to communicate, and talked about where we were from, where we’ve ridden so far, and where we’re going. We had fun sharing our stories as best we could using our limited French and the translation app, which only worked about 1 out 5 times because of limited cell phone coverage.
Waiting for the proprietors to arrive at the Chambre d’hôtes du Gravier. Blain, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Our room was in an old farmhouse, and it had a very homey atmosphere - like we’re guests staying at a friend’s house. The thick stone walls provided some insulation, but the only heat came from a space heater placed in the center of the room. Given the large size of the room, the space heater was not quite up to the task of making it warm. On the other hand, multiple layers of very thick blankets and comforters on the beds made sleeping in a cool room very comfortable. They also had surprisingly good wifi once we figured out how to get on.
Our homey room at the Chambre d’hôtes du Gravier. Blain, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
After cleaning up we headed over to the town’s castle, the Château de la Groulais. We were happy to find that it was still open. We walked around the grounds, visited a couple of exhibits in the castle, and climbed to the top of the main tower. It was fantastic to be able to wander around one of the chateaus at a leisurely pace, with very few other visitors.
Château de la Groulais. A castle has been on this site since the early 12th century, when it served as a frontier defense post for Brittany. But most of the current building dates to the 1600s, when it was extensively remodeled. Blain, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
A view from the tower of the Château de la Groulais. Blain, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
The olive trees growing along this wall at the Château de la Groulais weren’t very tall, but they look ancient. Just look at the thickness of their trunks. They could be hundreds of years old. Blain, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Sunset over the dock at the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, Blain, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
After our walk, we had the usual problems finding food on a Sunday in France. The grocery stores were all closed (fermé!), and we had to wait until after 7pm for the small number of restaurants that had Sunday hours to open. We ate at a casual kabob place that had a steady stream of customers waiting in line to order food. With only a handful of options in town, this place was really busy. We were glad we had arrived early to beat the rush.
Blain to Redon (8 April 2019, 45.6 km, 28.3 mi)
At 46 km, this was a short biking day so we were able to take our time and really enjoy the ride. The canal towpath was flat, but a lot of it was gravel, so it was pleasant to be able to cycle at a slower pace.
We saw a lot of wildlife today. In addition, the vegetation has been much more lush since we reached the Loire River. You can tell they get more rain here than anyplace else we’ve ridden so far on this trip.
Brittany’s morning mist. This stretch of the canal towpath had more gravel, making for a bumpy ride. But it was also very lightly used, giving us the chance to see a lot of wildlife. Nantes-to-Brest Canal, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Nutria (a.k.a., coypu) are very common on the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. We saw dozens of them. These two were grooming next to each other, until one of them decided to pick a fight, and chased the other one away. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Serenity along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Today was the first time we’ve seen a newborn animal. This calf could not have been very old. It was still wobbly on its legs, and it’s mother was licking it all over. The calf is clearly enjoying the attention. Nantes-to-Brest Canal, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
This Graylag Goose was part of a small flock grazing and resting along the canal. One of the geese had some goslings with her, too. Nantes-to-Brest Canal, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
One of the few boats that passed us on the Nantes-to-Brest Canal today. We’re here a bit early in the season, so it probably gets busier in the summer. But for now, we mostly had the canal to ourselves. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
We enjoyed riding next to each other on the wide path. Nantes-to-Brest Canal, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
We arrived in Redon about 20 minutes before the reception desk opened at our hotel, so we headed to a nearby pedestrian mall for lunch while we waited.
The Grand Rue is Redon’s old-town, pedestrian street. We grabbed a quick lunch here, before checking into our hotel. Redon, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
We were lucky to get checked in shortly after 2pm. Not long after that, the afternoon rain began to fall.
Later in the evening the rain showers passed, and we were able to get out for a walk around town. We saw several of the more notable buildings, including the Abbey of Saint-Sauveur (built in the 9th century) with its very tall and pointy bell tower.
Out and about in Redon, France. Town Hall and the Abbey of Saint-Sauver are in the background. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Holy Saint James! We spotted this marker, smaller than a business card, on a wall in Redon, France. It turns out there’s a Camino de Santiago (the Mont Saint-Michel route) that goes through here, too. They aren’t kidding when they say that all roads lead to Santiago. This marker was so small, most people probably wouldn’t notice it. But we’ve been conditioned to spot these markers from our time on the Camino. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
We wondered if Rue Franklin in Redon, France was named for Benjamin Franklin, who was very popular among the French. But we haven’t been able to find any connection between Ben and Redon. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
No, we didn’t photoshop this image. Yes, those leaves are flamingo pink. Walking down a side street in Redon, France, we couldn’t believe our eyes. But this Chinese cedar really does have bright pink leaves for 2-3 weeks in the spring, then they fade to green. It’s a wonder to behold. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Evening on the Nantes-to-Brest Canal, Redon, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Redon to Josselin (9 April 2019, 65 km, 40.4 mi)
Today we continued our journey along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. We awoke to a cold, misty morning. The fog hung over our route until almost noon, giving the ride a mystical aura. Then, as if someone had waved a magic wand, the mist evaporated within 15 minutes and we were riding under a clear, blue sky.
You can’t miss the signs that this region is damp. Everything is mossy including trees, roofs, garden walls, and even the middle of the road. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
The heavy fog added an air of mystery to the landscape along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Lock house along the Nantes-to-Brest Canal. Le Bas Limur, Peillac, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
The mustard fields look just as spectacular on the third day as they did on the first. Saint-Congard, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
A clear, blue sky appeared after the fog lifted. Saint-Congard, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
We stopped for a pleasant picnic lunch in Malestroit, a bustling village along the canal. This section of the canal was much busier than other areas, with lots of canal boats cruising the waters and lining the canal-side docks near town.
As we approached Josselin, we were treated to an impressive sight. The majestic Château de Josselin rises up as if it’s right in the center of the path. This chateau is in great condition, in part because a portion of the castle is still occupied by the 14th Duke of Rohan.
Like a fairy-tale come to life, the towers of the Château de Josselin set the tone for our arrival into town. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Our hotel was right across the canal from the chateau. After settling in, we wandered over to see the chateau close-up. It was fascinating to see how the stones of the chateau’s walls seem to rise right out of a granite outcrop along the canal. We also strolled around the historic city center.
Some of the rooms in the Hôtel du Château have great views of the castle, which sits just across the canal. But we opted for a room on the opposite, quieter side. Instead, we walked over the bridge to see the chateau up close. Josselin, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
The Château du Josselin has an astonishing array of imaginative gargoyles. We had fun checking out the different characters carved in the stone. Josselin, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
Medieval half-timbered houses line the narrow passageways in Josselin’s old town. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
We happened upon a local park where multiple games of boules were under way. You can tell by their expressions, these folks take the competition very seriously. Josselin, France. Copyright © 2018-2019 Pedals and Puffins.
