All in Churches
We‘ve reached the conclusion of our European bicycle journey, with our arrival on the shores of the Black Sea. The cobalt-blue waters were a welcome sight, as we celebrated over 9,300 km (5,800 mi) in the saddle. During the final days, we cycled over hills blanketed with mature vineyards, and valleys dotted with monasteries that marked the borderlands between Christian and Ottoman empires.
Romania is a land of contrasts. For several days, we seemed to be cycling on either unnervingly busy highways with high-speed traffic, or quiet rural backroads. Interestingly, the ubiquitous horse-drawn carts could be found on both types of road. Out on the highways, cars just whizzed past the carts, without a second thought. But once out of their cars, Romanians were some of the friendliest people we’ve met, waving and calling out, “hello!” or “hola!” as we rode by.
We took a few wrong turns, but eventually made it out of Belgrade, and back onto the rough-surfaced, but peaceful Danube levees. Before long, we had crossed the river, and were entering the stunningly beautiful Iron Gates. Through a series of tunnels and cliff-side roads, we cycled past the gorges that slice through the Carpathian Mountains, finally landing in Romania.
The bike ride to Belgrade served up more busy roads, with lots of fast moving traffic. A quieter section that passed through fields of corn, cabbage and carrots provided a pleasant break from the crowded throughways. Belgrade itself was a bustling, vibrant city with an iconic fortress and lots of classical architecture. We enjoyed strolling through the pedestrian-only walkways, between hotel-room planning sessions where we considered our options for travel once we reach the Black Sea.
Over the course of three days, we cycled through parts of Hungary, Croatia and Serbia. Along the EuroVelo 6 route, the three countries have very different personalities. Hungary provided tranquil riding along remote sections of the Danube levee. The route in Croatia was all along busy roads, lined with signs welcoming visitors to each small town. And Serbia was the most developed, including the country’s lively, second biggest city, Novi Sad.
We rode eastward from Bratislava, brushing past the northwestern Carpathian Mountains, and out onto the Great Hungarian Plain. The route alternated between excellent paved sections, deep wet gravel, and phenomenally potholed roads. But we eventually reached Budapest, the Pearl of the Danube, with its fascinating history and culture.
We’ve left Germany via the beautiful, baroque city of Passau. Our arrival in Austria brings our country-tally to seven for the trip. But Austria threw us a curve-ball, with three ferry crossings of the Danube River in one day. The route from Passau, Germany to Vienna, Austria is one of the most popular cycling trails in Europe, giving us lots of opportunities to meet other cyclists. One new friend from Holland let us try out his recumbent bicycle.
Out on a cycling tour, you eat whatever the villages along your way offer. Watermelons sold along the side of the road? Of course. An Italian cafe dinner in the heart of Bavarian Germany? Why not? Beer and cake for breakfast, in an ancient Benedictine monastery? Absolutely. It all tastes great when you’re traveling the world by bike.
We’ve started the final leg of our journey, heading downstream with the Danube River. Cycling through the Donautal Gorge, a steady rain soaked us as we rode past Hapsburg castles perched on the cliffs. Dozens of shrines along the bike route provided a constant reminder that we are still traveling on a pilgrim’s path to Santiago, through villages and forests that were once part of the Holy Roman Empire.
Cycling EuroVelo 6 is all about following the great rivers of Europe. We rode our last few days along the emerald-green Rhine River, and crossed the Swabian Jura Mountains to meet up with the Danube River. For the first time since leaving Nantes, France, we’ll be traveling downstream (and downhill) as the Danube flows eastward. Charming riverside towns, lush forests, and chocolate milk have been some of the pleasures along the way.
We cycled our last day in France, and we’ve been biking back and forth between Germany and Switzerland along the beautiful Rhine River. After a brief, urban ride through the industrial waterfront of Basel, our route cruised past thickly wooded hills and quaint riverside villages. We’re even learning a few words of German, like “radweg” (bicycle route).
The Rhône-to-Rhine Canal took us through more natural landscapes, bordered by misty hollows and wooded hills. The river feels wilder here, and we’re seeing a greater variety of birds, plus a few unexpected animals - like goats in a playground. Traveling by bike always produces a few surprises.
Crossing western France, we cycled along a river valley and canal that cut through the Jura Mountains. Our route was bordered by rugged cliffs and lushly forested hills. As we bounced along cobblestones on the path around Besançon, its grand citadel beckoned us from the cliffs above. We decided to stay an extra day to visit the citadel, and appreciate the city’s old world charm.
Our route on EuroVelo 6 followed two iconic canals through western France. The Canal du Centre links Brittany with the Mediterranean via the Loire and Rhône Rivers. And the Rhône-to-Rhine Canal connects the Mediterranean to the North Sea. The kilometers flew by on the flat and well-surfaced trails. Along the way we were entertained by canal-side gardens, tropical-looking birds, and an old French city oozing Renaissance charm.
