Cycling the Pan-American Highway in Peru, Part 4: Trujillo to Tumbes

As we cycled through Northern Peru, the world changed around us. Sand and rock shifted to scrubby hummocks, then to vast, sugarcane and rice fields fed by mega-irrigation projects. Wet season rains turned the surrounding hills a bright green, filled with birdsong and an abundance of wildlife. With each passing mile, industrial-scale farms gave way to small farms, then pastures dotted with oil wells. Eventually, a succession of sleepy beach towns haunted by the ghost of Hemingway brought us to Tumbes, on the doorstep of the border with Ecuador.

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