The region south of Lima, Peru, was full of surprises. We cycled past ancient images of animals and warriors etched on the desert hills, a 230-ft windmill blade sneaking down a sinuous mountain road, and acres of grape vines destined to become Peru’s national drink, the pisco sour. Slowly the coastline evolved from desolate beaches to a sprawl of condos and resorts. Just as the traffic became too crazy for cycling, we cruised onto a cliffside bike path with sweeping ocean vistas - and a holiday layover in Lima, the city by the sea.

As we cycled out of the city of Arequipa, we were swallowed by the parched, Peruvian coastal desert. With the exception of a few pockets of incredibly hardy plants, the only visible life was found in human settlements. Along the Pan-American Highway, life burst forth in fields of rice, melons, grapes and olives nurtured by precious sources of water, or bustling fishing villages harvesting the bounty of the sea. Outside of these places the desert prevailed, and we were alone with the sand, rocks and wind of South America’s Sahara.