All in Culture

Lake Tana, Ethiopia: Source of the Blue Nile

Lake Tana, Ethiopia: Source of the Blue Nile

Pedals and Puffins
Ancient Monuments, Culture, Nile River, Wildlife, Churches, Lake Tana, Birding

Our cycling route brought us to the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest body of water. From the city of Bahir Dar on the southern tip of the lake, we set out by boat to explore the region’s rich wildlife, and discover the mysteries of two Ethiopian Orthodox monasteries. Along the way we saw hippos, Nile monitor lizards, African fish eagles, and 40 other species of tropical birds. Fishermen paddled by in reed boats whose designs haven’t changed for nearly 3,000 years. And with the help of a local guide, we learned how the remote, ancient churches are still at the heart of Ethiopian culture and religious life.

Cycling Gonder to Bahir Dar, Ethiopia: Devil’s Nose and the Finger of God

Cycling Gonder to Bahir Dar, Ethiopia: Devil’s Nose and the Finger of God

Pedals and Puffins
Culture, Cycling, Mountains, Food, Wildlife, Lake Tana, Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Bahir Dar, Gonder

After a 10-day rest in the mountaintop city of Gonder, we were eager to get back on the road. Accompanied by our new cycling companions, a couple from France, we headed south through Ethiopia’s teff heartland. Fertile plains were punctuated by occasional mountain ridges, providing a variety of interesting scenery - including the giant stone hoodoos, with names like Devil’s Nose and the Finger of God.

Metema to Gonder, Ethiopia: Cycling to The Roof of Africa

Metema to Gonder, Ethiopia: Cycling to The Roof of Africa

Pedals and Puffins
Ancient Monuments, Camping, Culture, Cycling, Wildlife, Mountains, Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Gonder

Entering Ethiopia, we left the flatlands of Sudan behind. Over the next couple of days we would climb rapidly onto the Ethiopian Highlands, ascending nearly 3,500 m (11,250 ft). Because of the unique challenges Ethiopia presents, many have called it the most challenging country in the world to bike tour. It is not for the faint of heart. Along the way we encountered breathtaking scenery, massive hills, a strong military presence, some friendly and not-so-friendly locals, rock-throwing kids, and a collection of castles right out of a storybook.

Cycling Khartoum to Al Qadarif (Gedarif), Sudan: Will we be allowed into Ethiopia?

Cycling Khartoum to Al Qadarif (Gedarif), Sudan: Will we be allowed into Ethiopia?

Pedals and Puffins
Camping, Cycling, Visas, Wildlife, Culture, Museums, Bike Touring, Bike Travel, Khartoum

We were excited to visit Khartoum, Sudan, and to see cultural highlights like the National Museum and the Sufi Dervish sunset ceremony. But our enjoyment was tempered when the Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum refused to process our visa application. It would take several more days of riding through increasingly oppressive heat to reach the city of Qadarif and re-apply. We started to wonder, would they ever let us into Ethiopia?

Cycling Northern Sudan: Blowing in the Wind

Cycling Northern Sudan: Blowing in the Wind

Pedals and Puffins
Ancient Monuments, Culture, Ferries, Nile River, Tea, Weather, Wildlife, Sahara Desert, Camping, Cycling, Border Crossing, Merowe, Khartoum, Bike Touring, Bike Travel

Everything about Sudan is much lower-key than Egypt. It’s quieter, less crowded, slower paced, and overall just more relaxing to cycle in Sudan. We reveled in the tranquility of the desert, and the soft-spoken hospitality of the Sudanese people we met. The biggest factor out on the road was the fierce desert wind, which cut our cycling speeds in half, and covered everything we own with sand.