Our cycling route brought us to the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest body of water. From the city of Bahir Dar on the southern tip of the lake, we set out by boat to explore the region’s rich wildlife, and discover the mysteries of two Ethiopian Orthodox monasteries. Along the way we saw hippos, Nile monitor lizards, African fish eagles, and 40 other species of tropical birds. Fishermen paddled by in reed boats whose designs haven’t changed for nearly 3,000 years. And with the help of a local guide, we learned how the remote, ancient churches are still at the heart of Ethiopian culture and religious life.