17 February to 4 March 2025

17 February - Puyuhuapi to La Junta (27.5 mi, 44.3 km)
18 February - La Junta to Villa Santa Lucia (38.7 mi, 62.3 km)
19 February- Villa Santa Lucia to Yelcho Lake (19.2 mi, 30.9 km)
20 February - Yelcho Lake to Chaitén (32.3 mi, 52.0 km)
21-22 February - Rain days in Chaitén
23 February - Chaitén to Caleta Gonzalo (36.2 mi, 58.3 km)
24 February - Caleta Gonzalo to Pichicolo (1 mi cycling, 50 mi ferry)
25 February - Pichicolo to Morro Chaica (33.0 mi, 53.1 km)
26 February - Morro Chaica to Puerto Montt (24.4 mi, 39.3 km)
27 February-4 March - Layover in Puerto Montt

Meeting Other Cyclists on the Carretera Austral

A whole lot of cyclists dream of riding through Patagonia on the Carretera Austral. The allure of snow-capped mountains, turquoise blue rivers, untrammeled national parks, rustic towns that take you back 50 or 100 years, and the unique cultural characteristics of long-isolated communities serve to attract travelers from all over the world. Add to that a healthy dose of physical and weather-related challenges to test your mettle, and you have an intoxicating mix of ingredients that promises a ride full of adventure.

Evidence of this allure showed up in the number and variety of cyclists we encountered along the route. By the time we rolled out of the village of Puyuhuapi (pop. 1,000), we were regularly passing 20-30 cyclists per day, who were southbound on the Carretera Austral. That was totally unlike other places in Latin America, where you might encounter only one or two other cyclists in a month (and usually even less than that). Consequently, it was not possible to stop and visit with everyone we passed - something we would normally do when encountering cyclists in remote areas. There were just too many of them. Plus, they by and large just rode past us, showing no interest in slowing their own forward progress.

But every so often we would get the chance for a roadside meeting. And we always got pleasure out of hearing other people’s stories.

About three hours after departing Puyuhuapi we saw a couple of cyclists stopped along the side of the road. We pulled over to make sure everything was okay. That’s how we met Stephanie and Justin from Munich, Germany (a very common country of origin for cyclists on the Carretera Austral). In a ‘small world’ moment, we learned that Justin’s mother was a professor at the University where we had first met and fallen in love. In fact, he was born there as well (although he spent most of his youth elsewhere).

They were both still working, but would often take the time to cycle around Europe. We enjoyed hearing about their travels from Germany to Greece, and cycling through the French Alps. After finishing the Carretera Austral, they planned to board the same ferry we had taken from Caleta Tortél to Puerto Natales, Chile, so we were able to offer them some advice. They were both really nice, and we had a great time visiting with them.

Our roadside meeting with Stephanie and Justin (from Germany). We were tickled to learn that Justin had been born in the same town where we first met. Carretera Austral, North of Vista Hermosa, Aysén, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The ride from Puyuhuapi to La Junta was full of rolling hills, but nothing too challenging, so the miles passed quickly. We actually arrived in La Junta (pop. 1,430) too early to check into our cabin.

Along the entire length of the Carretera Austral, nearly all of the indoor lodging was either hospedajes (informal arrangements where a few, simple, hotel-like rooms are attached to, or inside of, someone’s house), or 1-3 rustic cabins owned and rented by a single individual or family. The cabins were often aimed at families on vacation, cramming 4-6 beds into a couple of rooms. But they were still a surprisingly good value for two people - usually costing about the same as (or even a little bit less than) a room in a hospedaje. The cabins typically had more space than a room in a hospedaje (making it easier to keep our bikes safely inside), they were ‘ground floor’ (so we wouldn’t have to haul our bikes up stairs), and they had kitchenettes where we could make our own meals. For these reasons, cabins had become our preferred lodging option.

The downside (of both cabins and hospedajes), was that the owners very often had another job, away from the cabin site. As a result, if we arrived too early they wouldn’t be able to come and let us in, until after they got off work.

That was the case in La Junta. When we contacted the cabin owner, she told us she was at work, but would come let us in as soon as she could. We had about an hour to wait. After shelter, food was never far from our minds. So it didn’t take long for us to find a food truck down the street where we could grab a late lunch while we waited.

That turned out to be an excellent decision. The Sol & Rouss Food Truck in La Junta actually made amazing Italiano sandwiches. Italiano sandwiches are named because their standard condiments (tomato, mayonnaise and avocado) are said to evoke the colors of the Italian flag. However, the sandwiches from this food truck were enormous. After eating, we promptly became comatose as our stomachs sent out an ‘all hands on deck’ alarm, causing most of the blood to flow out of our brains in order to digest the huge meal.

The cabins where we stayed in La Junta, with the Las Bardas Hill rising in the background. Carretera Austral, La Junta, Aysén, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The next day we met more cyclists, including a couple from Poland (a real rarity). Radek and Faustyna had taken a year off of work to cycle around South America. Like us they had also made the foolhardy decision to cycle northward, and were battling the same vicious winds. They were heading back northward after biking down the coast of Argentina, from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. This was by far the longest cycling trip they had ever undertaken, and they were clearly loving it. They were already dreaming of how they could make the time for longer trips in the future.

We spent the rest of the day bounding over the endless series of rolling hills that characterized this section of the Carretera Austral. The slopes bordering the road were covered with dense, green forests, while the valley bottoms were mostly cleared for cattle ranches and hayfields.

A morning mist hung low in the Palena River Valley. Carretera Austral, North of La Junta, Aysén, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

This one-lane, suspension bridge across the Palena River was notable for being a lot more elaborate than the typical viaducts on the Carretera Austral. It looked elegant, situated among the forested hills. Carretera Austral, Senator González Bridge, North of La Junta, Aysén, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Rustic structures in the Palena River Valley. Carretera Austral, North of La Junta, Aysén, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

This pointy mountain peak reminded us of the Matterhorn in Europe. Carretera Austral, Frío River Valley, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

During the second half of the day we followed the course of the Frío River. Here, the glacial ‘rock flour’ particles suspended in the meltwater looked more green than blue. Carretera Austral, Frío River Valley, South of Villa Santa Lucía, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

We ended our ride from La Junta at a roadside cafe known by the very generic name of Casa de Comida (‘house of food’ in English). The cafe had just five tables and was located by itself, about four miles (6.5 km) from the nearest town.

When we arrived all the tables were full - an indicator that either the food was good or that there was nowhere else to eat. Having nowhere else to eat was definitely the case for us, so we were thankful the restaurant was open. We also were glad we had reserved a cabin in advance, because it appeared that they only owned one cabin. Luckily, it was ours for the night.

The cafe where we spent the night was called simply Casa de Comida (‘house of food’). The sign out front advertised “Cabañas,” but in reality, there appeared to be only one cabin. Carretera Austral, Frío River alley, South of Villa Santa Lucía, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Check-in went smoothly enough, except for one detail… they couldn’t find the key to the cabin. Keys are surprisingly difficult to keep track of in some parts of the world. Fortunately it was unlocked. So while everyone was busy in the restaurant we moved in, hoping to catch up to the key later.

After a few hours we asked about the key again. One of the kitchen staff rummaged around and found a key ring loaded down with 10+ keys, and we got them all. One was bound to work.

The next morning we cycled to the quaint village of Santa Lucía (pop. ~100) under a beautiful blue sky. We immediately noticed that many buildings in the village looked recently built or renovated - very different from other towns we had passed through where all the buildings tended to be weathered, historical structures. It gave the village a fresh and inviting appearance. Little did we know at the time that there was a darker reason for this.

The San José Obrero Church was one of many buildings in Villa Santa Lucía that looked freshly built or updated. Carretera Austral, Villa Santa Lucía, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

About 45 minutes after departing the village, we passed a somber sight that cast Villa Santa Lucía in a different light. A large swath of mountainside was devoid of trees, almost as if it had been clearcut for forestry. Above this cleared area, a high mountain valley was completely covered with rocky debris - evidence of an avalanche chute. A sign by the side of the road provided some context for what we were seeing.

The sign explained that in December 2017, torrential rain had weakened the mountain just below a glacier, triggering a massive land and mud slide. As much as 12 million cubic meters of mud and debris (the equivalent of 12 Empire State Buildings) flowed swiftly down the mountainside and into the river valley. From there it sped downstream to the village of Santa Lucía, destroying 50% of the buildings and homes, and killing 22 people.

The site of the 2017 Santa Lucía Landslide, where a rock failure near the mountaintop glacier precipitated a devastating mud floe that inundated the village down river. Carretera Austral, North of Villa Santa Lucía, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

In the aftermath of the disaster, government officials declared the village uninhabitable due to the danger of future landslides. Efforts were made to relocate the population to a safer area on higher ground nearby. But the vast majority of people have refused to move, preferring to rebuild the village on its original site. Thus the new-looking buildings. Apparently this drama is still playing out, with the government planning to relocate the route of the Carretera Austral to higher ground, further to the east. It’s unclear how this tug-of-war will end, since the life blood of the town is the road. Never giving up in the face of natural disasters seems to characterize human history everywhere.

By the time we cycled away from the site of the landslide the sun was out in full force, causing us to rapidly shed layers of clothing as we ascended the next mountain pass. Before long, we had converted from down and fleece into our short sleeves.

Heading uphill to the next mountain pass. Carretera Austral, North of Villa Santa Lucía, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

As we reached the very summit of the pass, we saw two other cyclists resting at the top. When we waved as we approached, one of them (the girl) yelled out, “Hey, how old are you?” That made us laugh, thinking that we must be looking pretty tired. Wanting to know more about the bold, English speakers behind the words, we pulled over to introduce ourselves.

That’s how we met Emily and Erik. And despite our stereotypically brash-American introduction, they were really sweet. They were from a small town in the mountains of eastern California, about equidistant from Yosemite and Kings Canyon National Parks. We thought that was remarkable, because we had met so few, other Americans along the Carretera Austral.

The question about our ages revealed that we were about 40 years older than them. Emily thought this was awesome, and enthusiastically proclaimed that she wanted to also be cycling well into her 60s. We talked for half an hour about their nomadic lifestyle (they live in a van back home). They had cycled a lot in the USA, but were looking forward to doing more international trips, especially in Europe. With their energy level and drive, we had no doubt they would find a way to live out their dreams.

Making new friends (Emily and Erik, from the United States) at the top of the pass. Carretera Austral, North of Villa Santa Lucía, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

We enjoyed a sizzlingly fast descent off of the pass. Near the bottom, we stopped on a bridge for some photos. And while we were there, a family from Switzerland rode up on their bicycles. Dad Alex was on a 12-day cycling vacation with his daughters Isabelle and Sofia. They had started in Argentina, crossed the Andes to reach the Carretera Austral, and planned to cycle back over the mountains into Argentina to finish their ride. When we remarked that they had chosen a challenging path, with two Andean crossings, Alex shrugged and said they thought the mountain passes weren’t so tough. Of course, they were from Switzerland.

Alex and his daughters Isabelle and Sofia (from Switzerland) were on a family vacation, through the Andes by bicycle. Carretera Austral, South of Yelcho Lake, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

We arrived at the Yelcho Lake Campground - one of the few lodging options in the area - by mid-afternoon. They only had about 10 campsites and they didn’t take advance reservations, so we were very happy when the folks at the registration desk told us they had a vacancy. The Yelcho Lake Campground has a reputation for having particularly nice facilities. Each site has a spacious shelter with a picnic table, electric lights, and a stone grill, so we were expecting comfort.

But when we rolled into our assigned campsite, we immediately encountered problems. The roof of the shelter at the site we were given was only about 4.5 ft off the ground at its front edge, presenting a nice head banging opportunity. PedalingGal promptly took the bait, and banged her head on the way in (not great, since she’d suffered a concussion during her bike accident in Colombia). Plus, there must have been a yellow jacket nest nearby, because there were lots of the little pests in the air. It didn’t take us long to decide we needed to try to change our site.

Fortunately, that wasn’t a problem and we were able to move to a much better location. Not only did it have a nice, high roof and no yellow jackets, but the ground was also more level for our tent and it was farther from the neighbors. It was definitely an upgrade.

Our campsite upgrade, complete with a spacious shelter, and level ground for our tent. Carretera Austral, Yelcho Lake Campground, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

We also were the recipients of some wonderful generosity. Right after our arrival, a man came over and asked PedalingGuy if he would like some food. It turned out he was the cook for an organized group of cyclists (probably a group of 10 we had seen out on the road earlier), and had leftover lentil soup. We gladly accepted the offer, and found ourselves in possession of a big container of homemade soup for dinner.

But then we hit a snag. It had been such a long time since we’d used our own stove that we had completely forgotten how it worked. We are not novices with camp stoves, and have owned quite a few over the years. But the Trail Designs Sidewinder we brought on this trip was a particularly fiddly stove.

We got out the various pieces of titanium sheeting, metal rods, and the little cup for the cooking alcohol and started experimenting. On the first try we assembled it so that the pot sat too high above the alcohol flame, not getting enough heat. We took it apart and tried another configuration or two before finally getting it right. At last we got it going. The warm soup was delicious, especially paired with some cheese and bread we had with us. There was so much soup we were unable to finish it all. It was a huge treat.

After dinner we went for a walk. The campground was just steps away from the stunningly beautiful Yelcho Lake. We could see two different, large glaciers on the on the distant mountains. A stiff breeze was blowing across the lake from the north, causing waves too crash ashore that made it feel like we were walking at the edge of the ocean. A quiet cove sheltered some fishing boats, and further along the shore someone was attempting to kite surf among the waves.

The Road to Chaitén

The following morning we cycled out of camp under a thick layer of low-hanging clouds. For the first half hour our route made a sweeping arc along the northwest end of Yelcho Lake, offering beautiful views of the valley under the moody sky. However, the views we had hoped for of the nearby glaciers in the morning sun did not materialize. The tops of the mountains were hidden among the clouds.

View of Yelcho Lake from the Yelcho River Bridge. Carretera Austral, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The Yelcho River Bridge was the second suspension bridge we’d crossed since leaving Puyuhuapi. But this one was much bigger, and more grand than the first. Carretera Austral, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

After that our route turned northward, away from the hills along the lake shore. As the terrain mellowed, we began to see more ranches and farms. We stopped for a break at a shop in the small village of El Amarillo (pop. 81), which bills itself as The Center of the World. We weren’t quite sure why someone would apply that name to such a small town. But apparently it’s meant to reflect the inhabitants’ sense of pride and community… El Amarillo is the center of their world.

A ranch building along the road with the unique, wooden shingles that are characteristic of this area - found on homes, churches and barns. Carretera Austral, North of Yelcho Lake, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

This sign proclaimed the village of El Amarillo to be “The Center of the World.” Although the town was nice, it was not readily apparent to us why it had earned this designation. Carretera Austral, Villa El Amarillo, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The final run into Chaitén was flanked by picturesque, forest-cloaked mountains. Carretera Austral, approaching Chaitén, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Once we arrived in Chaitén (pop. 1,700), we had some trouble finding our accommodation. We cycled easily enough to the location where it appeared on Google Maps, but there were no signs there to indicate any of the buildings were for rent. That’s not actually unusual for situations like this, where someone is just renting a cabin or two for guests as a side gig. However, we had a photo of what our cabin looked like, and none of the buildings at this location matched our photo. That created more of a challenge. We walked up and down the adjacent streets, peering at buildings and looking for any signs that would point us in the right direction - without success. We then lingered nearby, hoping someone would pass whom we could ask for advice. Still no luck.

We were just about to send a WhatsApp message to the host, when a guy appeared from behind a tall, solid fence and asked us if he could help. When we provided our names, and explained we were looking for a rental cabin he brightened up and told us we were in the right place. His name was Bernardo, he was the caretaker of the property, and he had been expecting us. It turned out that the cabin was hidden within a little courtyard behind the fence. That’s why we couldn’t find it.

Bernardo let us stow our bikes inside the courtyard. But he was not the owner, and he could not let us inside the cabin. We would have to wait a little over an hour before the owner would be available to check us in. We asked if there were any places to get food nearby, and he suggested a restaurant a few blocks away.

We had decided to go to a different restaurant than the one recommended to us by Bernardo, so we were surprised to see him come into the restaurant while we were eating. He’d been searching for us to let us know that he had moved our bikes under a roof, because he was worried it might rain. Since he would not be there when we returned, he feared we would think the bikes had been stolen, and wanted to make sure we knew where to find them. It was incredibly kind of him to go to all that trouble to protect our bikes and track us down - even after we had moved to a different restaurant. Small remote towns can have the nicest people.

Back at the cabin after lunch, we spotted this cat snuggling with her kitten in a flower pot. Carretera Austral, Chaitén, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Echos of a Volcano

With a big storm front set to blow through central Patagonia, we spent the next two days huddled in our cabin in the town of Chaitén. As expected, the weather was cold, windy and wet. Things took a turn for the worse as a steady rain developed on the first afternoon, cancelling a fair that was supposed to take place in the town’s main plaza. By nightfall the rain was falling heavily in waves. And by the next day the wind was howling, shaking the cabin walls with its force. We were glad to have shelter during the storm. We often heard of people weathering Patagonian storms like this in a tent, only to end up with broken tent poles.

However, the weather was pretty clear on the first morning, before the arrival of the storm. Knowing that we had a limited window of fair weather, we went out for a walk along the town’s waterfront.

Once again we were struck by the new-looking construction along the waterfront promenade. Smooth concrete pathways led to grassy lawns topped with artwork, flagstone detailing marked sitting areas with well-maintained benches, attractive lampposts lined fresh-looking railings, and the modern tourist office looked brand new. The whole promenade felt like it had been recently renovated.

A handsome whale statue floated over a small lawn among the pathways on the waterfront promenade. Carretera Austral, Chaitén Costanera, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

But one thing was odd… the ‘waterfront’ was very far from the water. Between the promenade and the ocean there was more than a quarter mile of undeveloped sand and gravel, dotted with patches of grass, twisted hunks of driftwood, and some low bushes on the higher dunes. A herd of local horses grazed out on the floodplain. And a few brave souls walked along the sandy paths to the sea. We marveled at the design of the place, not sure what to make of it.

A group of local horses enjoyed the grass and relative tranquility of the sandy plain stretching between the town of Chaitén and the sea. Carretera Austral, Playa Chaitén, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Only later did we learn that the new construction in Chaitén has a darker side, similar to the fresh look of the buildings in Villa Santa Lucía. In May 2008 the Chaitén Volcano, which sits just six miles (9.7 km) northeast of town, erupted violently after laying dormant for 9,000 years. The explosion created an ash plume that rose 19 miles (31 km) high, and blew hundreds of miles into the Atlantic Ocean to the east.

A volcanic mudflow caused the Blanca River to completely flood Chaitén. Fortunately, the town had been evacuated right away, so no one was killed. But over subsequent months, much of the community’s infrastructure was destroyed as the Blanca River carried debris towards the ocean, and even carved a new channel through the center of town. The large, alluvial fan of gravel at the mouth of the Blanca River - which we now see as the ‘beach’ between Chaitén and the sea - was a product of that flood.

Scoping for birds among the nearshore rocks. Carretera Austral, Playa Chaitén, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Gnarled chunks of driftwood lay where previous storms had washed them ashore. Carretera Austral, Playa Chaitén, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Back on Gravel in Pumalín National Park

Departing Chaitén, our route took us in a wide arc along the western foothills of the Chaitén Volcano, which remained hidden in the low-hanging clouds. After about 2.5 hours, we entered Pumalín National Park. Stretching all the way from the Pacific Coast to the border with Argentina, the park encompasses roughly a million acres (about the size of Glacier National Park in the United States), and has an unusual history. It was created when the Tompkins Foundation (endowed by an American philanthropist) donated the land to the Chilean government in 2018.

At the top of a rainy pass we saw a wooden shelter overlooking a lake, and decided it was time for a break. The air was full of mist, obscuring the view of the lake below. But even in soft focus, the scenery was lush and lovely. We hung out in the relatively dry comfort of the shelter for nearly half an hour, enjoying a snack of bananas and trail mix.

The shelter at a scenic overlook seemed as good a place as any to try and dry out. What looks like water behind us is actually the rain-soaked surface of the overlook’s parking area. Carretera Austral, Río Negro Lake Overlook, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

A soft-focus view of Río Negro Lake from the misty heights of the Carretera Austral. Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Soon after we set off down the road again the rain ended, which was awesome. That gave us a chance to enjoy more of the scenery in this protected corner of the temperate rainforest.

The impressively-large diamondleaf fern grew in lush thickets along the road. Although it doesn’t have a trunk, genetics has shown that the diamondleaf fern is very closely related to tree ferns (its giant leaves seemed like a hint at that connection). Carretera Austral, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

We followed this sign’s guidance, using ‘maximum precaution’ while cycling on the slippery gravel road. Carretera Austral, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The operations of both the ferry and campground at Caleta Gonzalo were somewhat mysterious to us. There was very little information online, no helpful signage at the campground itself, and no one present at the ferry ramp to offer any advice. After arriving at the dock, it took us a while to decipher how to check in to the campground, but by nightfall we still hadn’t found anyone who could tell us exactly how the ferry procedures worked.

The Caleta Gonzalo Lodge offered relatively cushy accommodations near the ferry dock along the Carretera Austral. It also ended up being the place for us to check in to the Río Gonzalo Campground. Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The Gonzalo River flowed briskly through a substantial ravine between the main road and our campground for the night. Carretera Austral, Camping Río Gonzalo, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The only way to reach the campground was via a rather bouncy, narrow, swinging bridge over the ravine. Given the weight limitation of the bridge, we crossed it with our bikes, one at a time. Carretera Austral, Camping Río Gonzalo, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Our campsite on a little lawn cleared from the rainforest. Carretera Austral, Camping Río Gonzalo, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

On the edge of our campsite was one of the biggest Chilean rhubarb plants we had seen yet. We figured that if our tent started to leak, we could just escape the rain under these giant leaves. Carretera Austral, Camping Río Gonzalo, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The Ferry to Pichicolo

Going north, the on-land part of the Carretera Austral comes to an abrupt end when the road dives headlong into the Reñihue Fjord. The Andes mountains in this area are so steep and forbidding that there are no roads at all if you wish to continue going north. The only solution is to either hop on an airplane (from a tiny airstrip nearby, no thanks) or a boat.

To continue by boat, we had two options.

Option 1: Take a 5-hour ferry through the Gulf of Ancúd, that circumnavigates a mountainous peninsula to a little village called Pichicolo.
Option 2: Take two separate ferries, with a 6.5 mile (10.5 km) stretch of road in between and ending in the town of Hornopirén.

Option 2 came with a slew of logistical challenges, including some tricky timing for cycling the 6.5 miles between the two ferries. Typically the second ferry waits for cars to drive from the first ferry, loads the cars and then leaves. Of course, it takes a lot longer to travel the 6.5 miles between ferries by bicycle than by car. That means you have to tell someone in one of the cars to ask the ferry to wait for you, or try to hitch a ride with your bike in one of the cars. Cycling the gap puts a lot of pressure on the cyclist to pedal as fast as possible, because the whole ferry - with all the other passengers - has to wait for you to arrive.

For simplicity and peace of mind, we chose the single ferry to Pichicolo (Option 1).

However, as mentioned above, information about the timing and procedures for getting on board this ferry was very difficult to obtain. The ferry schedule posted online showed the days of operation (only 3 days each week), and hour of departure (only one ferry, at 9am), but provided no further insights about how to get a ticket or reserve a spot on board.

Some online advice from other travelers recommended getting a reservation, yet we couldn’t figure out how to get one. Neither the folks at the Caleta Gonzalo lodge, nor at the little National Park Visitors Center near the dock, had anything more than a vague idea of how the ferry worked. And messages we had sent to the ferry operator remained unanswered. The best advice we could get was to show up early, and hope for the best.

Accordingly, we set an alarm to ensure we wouldn’t over-sleep, and made it to the dock just before 8am. There was already a pretty long line of cars on the road, and about a dozen pedestrians wandering around. We parked our bikes, then waited.

In the end we needn’t have worried. The ferry arrived around 8:45, and the crew were very efficient in unloading and loading the cars. The guy who supervised the loading process just waved for us to roll our bikes onboard, where we paid the fare in cash to another employee. It really was quite simple. By the time we had paid our fare and secured our bikes to the railing of a walkway, the boat was already underway.

(As reference for other cyclists: reservations are probably only required for people with automobiles since there appeared to be lots of space along the railings for cyclists. Just go to the front of the line when you arrive at the ferry landing and get on with the pedestrians.)

The ferry to Pichicolo, arriving at the Caleta Gonzalo dock. Carretera Austral, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Once onboard the ferry to Pichicolo, we needed to lash our bikes to a railing for safety. Carretera Austral, Caleta Gonzalo, Pumalín National Park, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

This little passenger got to stay safely inside a car. Carretera Austral, Ferry to Pichicolo, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Storm clouds hung low over the mountains as we sailed out of Caleta Gonzalo. Carretera Austral, Ferry to Pichicolo, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

On one foray out onto the ferry’s deck, we spotted this youngster piloting the boat. He looked a bit young to have that job. But the boat didn’t run aground, so he must have had everything well under control. (The real captain was close at hand). Carretera Austral, Ferry to Pichicolo, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Unloading from the ferry was equally painless, and before long we had checked into a little cabin in Pichicolo (pop. 360). Our top priority was spreading out all of our damp gear to let it dry out. Rain showers continued outside for the rest of the afternoon. It is amazing how much the Andes mountains affect weather patterns. When you are west of the Andes in Patagonia, expect day after day of rain. And when you are east of the Andes, you can expect lots of clear skies and sunshine.

Our little cabin, after the ferry ride to Pichicolo. The main room was a bit smaller than usual, so our bikes stayed outside, on the porch. Carretera Austral, Pichicolo, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Around 8:30pm the cabin was feeling quite chilly. Earlier in the day the host had told us to let him know when we wanted the fire lit. So when we saw him outside talking with a neighbor, we went and asked him for a fire. Instead of bringing over some matches, kindling and wood so we could start our own fire (as would normally be expected), he actually showed up with a shovel full of hot coals from his house. After putting two shovels worth of hot coals into the stove, he added some wood. It took about 15 minutes for the wood to catch fire, but pretty soon after that we were warming up. The cabin stayed quite toasty for most of the night.

The Ferry to La Arena

The next day we had beautiful weather for a bike ride - cloudy and cool, but no rain. We climbed over a couple of steep ridges, so were glad that the clouds blocked the sun (keeping us cool and comfortable).

Within the first couple of miles our route turned away from the coast, and ascended onto a high, forested ridge. Every so often there was a little village, often with one of the characteristic, all-wood churches that the area is known for. Unfortunately, after Pichicolo there also was a whole lot more traffic, and hardly any road shoulder at all. On some of the blind, mountain curves this made the cycling feel a little bit more risky.

We passed a farm that had stacked more than 20 beehives right next to the road. Fortunately, we spotted them before we got too close, and moved to the other side of the road to give the bees their space. We have been in situations on other rides where bees got stuck in our helmet or clothing, which creates some excitement as you attempt to extract the bee before it stings. Carretera Austral, Hualaihué, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

After three hours of cycling, we reached the end of the headlands and plunged rapidly back down to the coast. From there it was a relatively quick and easy run to reach the ferry terminal at Caleta Puelche.

As we approached the ferry port in Caleta Puelche our route returned to the coast, where we passed even more, large fish farms. Carretera Austral, South of Caleta Puelche, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

This time the ferry ride was just a half hour. A fleet of 3-4 ferries ran continuously, back and forth across the mouth of the Reloncaví River, 24 hours a day. They stopped at the docks just long enough to load and unload cars, then set sail again. The trip was so focused on efficiency that there wasn’t even an indoor passenger seating area on the boat. Most people either stayed in their cars or headed to the nearest railing to watch the scenery during the trip.

After strapping our bikes to a railing, we took our handlebar bags and climbed some stairs onto a small, elevated deck. There was a mini-bench, just big enough for the two of us that looked out over the bow of the ship. No one else was there (and you could hardly have fit another person on the small deck, even if you tried). It was the best seat on the ship. We sat on the bench and enjoyed the wind in our hair for the quick river crossing.

View of cars and other passengers below us, from our bench on an upper deck. The ferry had just pulled away from the dock at Puelche. Carretera Austral, Ferry to La Arena, Reloncaví River, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Enjoying the views from our ‘private’ bench on an upper deck. Carretera Austral, Ferry to La Arena, Reloncaví River, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

After the short (30 min) ferry ride, we rolled our bikes off the boat and into the village of La Arena. Carretera Austral, Ferry to La Arena, Reloncaví River, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

A cluster of small boats near the ferry dock in La Arena. Carretera Austral, La Arena, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Upon arrival in La Arena (pop. 245) we were pleased to see maybe a dozen restaurants. That was wonderful because we were planning on grabbing what might be our only meal of the day. From a distance it looked like there were lots of choices.

However, we soon discovered that the food diversity was surprisingly large, as long as it could be bundled inside an empanada. Every flavor of empanada imaginable was being sold. Some restaurants had 10-20 different types. Apparently, the fact that the vast majority of people passing through only needed to quickly grab a bite to eat before jumping on the ferry had narrowed the food selections to South America’s ultimate snack food, empanadas.

That presented us with a bit of a problem. This was potentially going to be our only meal for the day, so we really wanted something more substantial. PedalingGal waited near the dock with the bikes, while PedalingGuy took off to look for a restaurant serving something besides empanadas.

It was like looking for a needle in a haystack. He went into 8-10 restaurants to ask what they served, but the answer was the same everywhere. Only empanadas. He may have checked out every little cafe before finally discovering the one and only place to offer an alternative. In addition to empanadas (of course), this restaurant also had a fixed-menu lunch of soup, salad, fish and mashed potatoes. It was perfect. Afterwards we bought a couple of ‘to go’ empanadas to take with us to the cabin. That turned out to be a good move.

The cabin for the night was situated part of the way up the side of a mountain, near the end of a very steep driveway. At the top we were treated to a fantastic view out over Reloncaví Sound, with the distant city of Puerto Montt just visible through the haze.

By far the best thing about the cabin was that it had a huge, covered porch. Our tent was still soaking wet from the night we camped in the rainforest at Caleta Gonzalo, because there had not been enough room in the little cabin in Pichicolo to spread it out to dry. Now, we were able tie the ends of the tent to the rafters on the porch, letting it dry in the mountain breeze. It worked like a charm. In addition, the porch provided the perfect space for washing off all the dust and grime that had accumulated on our bikes from the gravel roads further south. We spent an hour or more washing and wiping away the dirt, until our bikes finally looked spiffy again.

Taking full advantage of the massive, covered porch at our cabin. We were finally able to dry out our sopping wet tent, and to clean the dirt off our bikes. Carretera Austral, Morro Chaica, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

There was a big patch of *Fuchsia magellanica* blooming next to our cabin, with a feisty hummingbird busily defending the flowers from any intruders - especially the 3-4 other hummingbirds who kept trying to invade. This species (Green-backed Firecrown) ranges all the way down to Tierra de Fuego in the summer, and we had seen many along our route. But this was the first time one sat still for a photo. Carretera Austral, Morro Chaica, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

However, there was a big downside to our cabin. When we arrived, the power was out. The host said it was a problem throughout the area, and there was nothing he could do about it. At the time we were a bit frustrated, because we had no lights, refrigerator or stove (luckily, we could eat the leftover empanadas, so we didn’t go hungry). We were actually very lucky that the hot water for the shower wasn’t electric. But without lights it was a dark night, and we were unable to charge our devices.

Only later did we learn that there had been a nationwide power outage in Chile (affecting 98% of the population). The government declared a national emergency that lasted nearly 12 hours. Traffic lights stopped working causing major disruptions, people were stuck in elevators, hospitals and airports had to switch to emergency generators, a curfew lasted all night, and the National Guard was deployed to keep order in the capital. The US Embassy sent out an email (which of course we didn’t receive until later… because the power was out) urging people to shelter in place. So in fact, we were fortunate to be safely settled in a comfortable cabin. The Great Chilean Power Outage of 2025, which caused quite a bit of hardship across the country, left us largely unscathed.

The Road to Puerto Montt

The final run into the city of Puerto Montt hugged the coast. There were long stretches of road bordering the gravelly shoreline, with few buildings to block the view. The big hills of the Carretera Austral were mostly behind us. Instead, we rolled along on coastal flats, with just a couple of headlands that lifted us up for more sweeping views of Reloncaví Sound. Every little cove was crowded with small, colorful fishing boats, and we stopped often to take photos of the tranquil scenes.

Prepping for a fishing run

Working boat anchored near a fish farm

Idle Fishing Boats

Colorful boats stranded by the outgoing tide

Many of the buildings on the way into Puerto Montt were unremarkable, so this multi-colored house really stood out. Carretera Austral, Chamiza, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The only downside was the traffic. There were many more cars and trucks on the road as we approached the large city of Puerto Montt. That wouldn’t have been a big deal if the road conditions were good for cycling, but they were not. The lanes were narrow, there were lots of tight curves, and there was hardly any shoulder for us to ride on.

Needless to say we were thrilled to reach the beginning of the Costanera bike path, which runs along the entire length of Puerto Montt. For the final 45 minutes, we cruised along the urban waterfront fully protected from the traffic. On the way we passed the ‘beginning’ of the Carretera Austral (Kilometer 0), which was actually the end for us.

If you’re heading south on the Carretera Austral, this is where it all begins (Kilometer 0). We bucked the trend and rode northward instead. So this was the end of the Carretera Austral for us. Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Layover in Puerto Montt

We ended up spending some extra time in Puerto Montt (pop. 281,000) to figure out which route we wanted to take next, and to refresh some of our gear that was showing its age after 2.5 years on the road.

Puerto Montt has the alluring nickname of “Gateway to Chilean Patagonia,” but aside from the Costanera promenade along the waterfront, it isn’t a city were tourists linger. Rather, “gateway” seems to be the key word. The city is a big industrial hub, focused first and foremost on moving people and goods from other parts of Chile (or the world) onward into Patagonia. As mentioned above, it is the northern terminus of the Carretera Austral, which is a VERY popular tourist route. In addition, quite a few major ferry routes launch from Puerto Montt. Consequently, many of the city’s hotels seemed like transit hotels, for people spending just one or two nights before heading into Patagonia. It also had a very big and modern mall where lots of outdoor gear was sold, presumably so people could buy last minute supplies before beginning their Patagonian adventures.

When not running errands, we enjoyed walks along the waterfront. We made several visits to the charming Angelmó Market - a seafood and produce hub reminiscent of an old-fashioned city market, with independent vendors selling their goods straight from the boat or farm. Nearly all of the people we saw shopping at the market looked like locals. Here are some photos from our time in Puerto Montt:

For 85 years Chile’s primary north-south railroad had its terminus in Puerto Montt, bringing goods and people to the city’s port. The trains stopped running in 1996, but a park along the waterfront has turned some of the old machines into works of public art. Plaza of the Trains, Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Entrance to the Angelmó Market, which anchors the western end of the waterfront district in Puerto Montt. Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The market sat along a shallow, narrow channel that would drain at low tide. Vendors heading to market by boat needed to arrive when the tide was high, because as the tide went out the boats would settle onto the sandy banks of the channel - stranded until the water rose again. Angelmó Market, Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

These meat vendors didn’t bother to bring their products on shore and into the market. They just ‘opened shop’ on the decks. Shoppers went down a set of stairs to purchase meat directly from the boats. Angelmó Market, Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Inside the market, rows of independent vendors laid out their products for sale. A large portion of the real estate was devoted to fresh seafood, with a dizzying variety of ocean fauna for sale. Angelmó Market, Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

Sacks of mussels delivered to the market

Cleaning the Merluza (hake fish) for sale

Freshwater crayfish sold as 'shrimp from the Cocido River'

Ceviche, fresh from the sea

There also were piles of fresh produce for sale

Mixed bags of heirloom potatoes

The walk to the market passed along Angelmó Avenue, which was lined with artisanal craft stores and small restaurants. This mural decorated the facade of one of the rows of craft stalls. Paseo Costanera, Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

This black-faced ibis was obviously a city bird. It seemed quite relaxed while feeding on one of the busy, urban lawns along the waterfront. Paseo Costanera, Puerto Montt, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

While Puerto Montt has some nice outdoor stores, the town of Puerto Varas (just to the north) is better known for having quality bike shops. We ended up cycling up to Puerto Varas one day to get our tubeless tires rotated, because of uneven wear on the front vs. back tires. Blackline Bike Shop was the only bike shop in Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas that had our preferred sealant, and they did a great job. After that we were all set for another couple of thousand miles. Puerto Varas, Los Lagos, Chile. Copyright © 2019-2025 Pedals and Puffins.

The End of the Carretera Austral

Traveling along the Carretera Austral was an unforgettable journey, serving up a healthy dose of rugged adventure. Making the trip by bicycle allowed us to take it slow, immerse ourselves in the stunning landscapes, and appreciate the resilience of the pioneer communities along the way. As the sun set on our Carretera Austral adventure, we considered ourselves fortunate to have had the chance to cycle this iconic road, which is perhaps one of the most famous bike touring routes in the world.

Cycling the Carretera Austral, Part 3: Puyuhuapi to Puerto Montt, Chile